The loganberry is the "happy accident" of the berry world — a spontaneous hybrid between a blackberry and a raspberry, discovered in 1881 by judge and horticulturist James Harvey Logan.

Appearance and Flavour

Loganberries resemble elongated raspberries but have a distinct character all their own. They are a deep, dusky red when unripe, turning a rich, dark burgundy-purple at full maturity, and can reach up to 4 cm in length. Unlike raspberries, the berry remains attached to its core (receptacle) when picked — more like a blackberry in that respect.

The flavour is bold, sharp, and intensely fruity. Significantly more tart than a standard raspberry, with a complex wild-berry undertone, loganberries are assertive and aromatic. Think of a raspberry with the volume turned up.

Culinary Uses

Due to their high acidity and punchy flavour, loganberries are rarely eaten fresh by the handful. They truly shine when cooked or preserved:

• Preserves: Their high pectin content makes them excellent for jams and jellies.
• Baking: They hold their shape well in crumbles, pies, and tarts.
• Beverages: A popular base for syrups, fruit wines, and cordials.
• Freezing: Freeze exceptionally well, making them a great crop for year-round use.

Garden Value

Loganberries are vigorous, long-lived perennial cane fruits that reward gardeners with heavy crops from established plants. Their trailing canes require a sturdy trellis or wire support system. They are hardier than many people expect and, once established, require relatively little attention beyond annual pruning.

Fun Fact: The loganberry is considered a parent of other famous hybrid berries, including the Boysenberry and the Tayberry — making it a founding member of the designer-berry movement.

How To Grow

Growing loganberries is a rewarding project. They are vigorous, hardy cane fruits that produce heavy yields once established. Because they are trailing plants, they need a supporting structure to keep them productive and manageable.

Timing and Location

• When to Plant: Bare-root canes are best planted during the dormant season (late autumn to early spring). Container-grown plants can be planted at any time the ground is workable, though spring or autumn are preferable.
• Sunlight: Full sun gives the best crop and sweetest fruit. Partial shade is tolerated but expect smaller, more tart berries.
• Soil: Prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0–6.5) enriched with organic matter. Avoid waterlogged ground, which causes root rot. Raised beds are ideal if drainage is poor.

Setting Up a Trellis

Loganberry canes can reach 2–3 metres or more and must be supported.

• Erect a post-and-wire trellis with horizontal wires at approximately 60 cm, 90 cm, and 150 cm from the ground.
• A sturdy fence also works well.
• Space plants approximately 2.5–3.5 metres apart — this seems generous but they fill the space quickly.

Planting

1. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball.
2. Mix in generous amounts of well-rotted compost or manure.
3. Plant at the same depth as the plant was previously growing.
4. Firm the soil, water deeply, and apply a thick mulch of straw or wood chips to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Ongoing Care

• Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the first growing season and during fruit development. Do not allow the roots to dry out.
• Feeding: Apply a balanced general fertiliser in early spring, followed by a potassium-rich feed as flowering begins to encourage fruit production.
• Mulching: Refresh the mulch layer each spring.

Pruning — The Two-Year Cane Cycle

Loganberries are floricanes, meaning:

• Year 1 (Primocanes): New green canes grow but do not fruit.
• Year 2 (Floricanes): Those same canes flower and fruit.
• After harvest: Cut all fruited canes down to ground level immediately after picking is complete. Tie in the current season's new green canes to the trellis — these will fruit next year.

This annual cycle keeps the plant healthy, maximises yields, and reduces the risk of disease building up in old woody canes.

Harvesting

Harvesting loganberries requires a little patience, as colour alone can be deceiving. Getting the timing right makes the difference between an intensely tart berry and a deeply flavoured, sweet-sharp one.

When to Harvest

Loganberries typically ripen in mid to late summer, though exact timing varies with climate and variety.

• Avoid the Red Trap: When berries first turn bright red they look ready but are still very tart — the sugars have not yet fully developed.
• Look for Dark Burgundy: Wait until the berries deepen to a rich, dark burgundy or purplish-red. At this point they will feel noticeably softer to the touch.
• Check daily once the colour begins to develop, as berries can go from underripe to overripe in a matter of days in warm weather.

How to Pick

Unlike raspberries, which separate cleanly from their core, loganberries remain attached to the receptacle (like a blackberry), so you are picking the whole berry plus its core.

• Do not pull hard — if the berry resists, it is not ready.
• Use a gentle twist: hold the berry lightly between thumb and forefinger and give a slight twisting motion. A ripe loganberry releases from the stem with minimal effort.
• Wear long sleeves — the canes have thorns.

Best Time of Day

Harvest in the early morning after any dew has dried but before the afternoon heat sets in. Cool berries are firmer, bruise less easily, and have a significantly longer shelf life than those picked warm.

Storage and Preservation

Loganberries are highly perishable and typically last only 1–3 days after picking.

• Refrigerate immediately, unwashed, in shallow containers or punnets so the berries are not crushed by their own weight.
• Wash only immediately before use — moisture accelerates mould.
• Freezing: Spread berries in a single layer on a tray and freeze until solid (1–2 hours), then transfer to sealed freezer bags. This flash-freeze method prevents them clumping together and preserves them well for months.
• Preserving: Loganberries are outstanding for jams, jellies, syrups, and fruit wines due to their high pectin content and bold flavour.

Common Problems

Loganberries share many of the same pest and disease challenges as other cane fruits. Being aware of common problems allows you to intervene early and protect your crop.

Pests

Raspberry Beetle (Byturus tomentosus): The most damaging pest of cane fruits. The adult beetle lays eggs in the flowers, and the larvae burrow into the developing fruit, rendering berries inedible. Inspect fruit carefully at harvest. Encourage birds and beneficial insects to reduce populations.

Aphids: Colonies of aphids can colonise the growing tips in spring and summer, causing distorted, curling leaves. A strong water jet or insecticidal soap spray can control infestations. Encourage ladybirds and lacewings as natural predators.

Spider Mites: In hot, dry conditions, spider mites may appear on the undersides of leaves, causing a fine speckling and bronzing. Keeping plants well-watered reduces susceptibility.

Birds: Ripe loganberries are attractive to many bird species. Use netting over fruiting canes to protect your harvest.

Diseases

Cane Blight: A fungal disease causing canes to die back suddenly in summer. It often enters through wounds. Remove and destroy affected canes promptly and avoid damage during training.

Spur Blight: Causes dark purple-brown blotches on canes around the buds, leading to reduced fruiting. Improve airflow by training canes properly and removing spent floricanes promptly.

Botrytis (Grey Mould): In wet or humid conditions, Botrytis cinerea can cause fruit to collapse and become covered in grey mould. Ensure good airflow and harvest fruit promptly when ripe.

Root Rot (Phytophthora): Caused by waterlogged soil conditions. Plant in well-drained ground or raised beds. Affected plants show wilting and dieback even with adequate water.

Virus Diseases: Loganberries can be affected by several mosaic and ring-spot viruses, often spread by aphids. Symptoms include mottled, distorted leaves and reduced yields. Always start with certified virus-free planting stock and remove any visibly infected plants to prevent spread.