The Medlar (Mespilus germanica) is a small, deciduous tree with a rich history stretching back to ancient times. Cultivated for millennia, it fell out of fashion in the modern era but is now enjoying a well-deserved revival among gardeners who appreciate unusual heritage fruits.

Appearance

Medlar trees are compact and characterful, often developing a gnarly, twisted form that gives them an almost ancient quality even when relatively young. In late spring they are covered in large, solitary white or pale-pink blossoms — each one a generous five-petalled flower sitting at the tip of the shoots. The foliage is long, dark green, and slightly felted, turning a spectacular buttery yellow and russet orange in autumn. The fruit itself is distinctive: roughly the size of a large rosehip, brown and russeted, with a wide-open calyx at the base — a shape that has historically prompted many colourful common names.

The Bletting Process

Medlars cannot be eaten straight from the tree. The freshly harvested fruit is hard and astringent. To become edible it must undergo bletting — a process of controlled over-ripening in which the flesh breaks down, softens, and develops a rich, complex flavour reminiscent of spiced apple, dates, and brown sugar. Once bletted, medlars can be eaten raw, made into jelly, cheese, or used in baking.

Why Grow a Medlar?

Beyond the fruit, medlars are outstanding ornamental trees. They are self-fertile (one tree is enough), naturally compact, largely pest and disease resistant, and extraordinarily long-lived — a medlar tree planted today could still be producing fruit for future generations.

How To Grow

Getting Started

Medlars are almost always grown from grafted trees rather than seed, as seed-grown plants are highly variable and take many years to fruit. Purchase a grafted tree from a reputable nursery, ideally on a quince rootstock for a compact garden tree, or on a seedling rootstock for a larger, longer-lived specimen.

Location and Soil

• Sunlight: A position in full sun gives the best fruit ripening, though medlars tolerate partial shade.
• Shelter: Choose a site sheltered from strong prevailing winds. Medlar branches can be somewhat brittle, and the large spring blossoms are vulnerable to being blown away before pollination.
• Soil: Medlars prefer well-drained, moderately fertile, slightly acidic loam. They are impressively adaptable and will tolerate heavier soils, including clay, provided drainage is reasonable.

Planting

Plant during the dormant season (late autumn through to early spring) when the tree is bare of leaves.

1. Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and approximately the same depth.
2. Enrich the backfill soil with well-rotted compost or manure.
3. Position the tree so the graft union remains above soil level.
4. Firm in, water well, and stake the tree for the first two to three years.

Ongoing Care

• Watering: Water young trees regularly through their first two growing seasons. Established trees are relatively drought-tolerant but benefit from a good soak during extended dry spells.
• Mulching: Apply a 5–8 cm layer of organic mulch around the base each spring, keeping it clear of the trunk.
• Feeding: A light application of a balanced general fertiliser in early spring is sufficient. Avoid over-feeding with nitrogen, which promotes leafy growth at the expense of fruit.

Pruning

Prune in winter while the tree is fully dormant. Medlars need only light pruning:

• Remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood.
• Thin out crossing or rubbing branches to open up the centre of the canopy to light and air.
• Avoid heavy pruning — medlars fruit on spurs and short shoots that build up over several years.

Harvesting

When to Pick

Medlars are ready to harvest in mid to late autumn, typically after the first significant frost has touched them. Traditional guidance recommends leaving them on the tree for as long as possible — often into November — as the cold helps initiate the conversion of starches to sugars. The fruit is ready to pick when:

• It has turned a dull, russet brown
• It comes away from the branch with a gentle twist and lift (not a hard tug)
• The calyxes feel slightly softened

Handle with care at this stage — bruising can lead to uneven bletting.

Bletting

Freshly picked medlars are inedible — rock hard and aggressively astringent. They must be bletted before eating:

1. Spread the fruit out in a single layer on a tray or shallow box.
2. Place them calyx (eye) downwards on dry straw, newspaper, or sawdust to allow airflow and reduce bruising.
3. Store in a cool, dark, frost-free location such as a shed, outhouse, or cellar. Do not seal them in a box — they need air circulation.
4. Wait 2–4 weeks.

Knowing When They Are Ready

Bletted medlars look, to the uninitiated, as though they have gone bad — but that is precisely correct:

• Skin: Slightly wrinkled and dull
• Flesh: Soft and yielding to gentle pressure — the consistency of thick jam or soft cheese
• Colour: Interior flesh turns from cream/green to deep brown
• Aroma: Sweet, spiced, and faintly wine-like

Using the Harvest

Bletted medlars can be eaten raw by scooping out the soft pulp with a spoon and discarding the seeds and skin. They are also excellent made into medlar jelly, medlar cheese (a firm fruit preserve), or used as a flavouring in sauces, chutneys, and baked goods. Surplus pulp can be frozen for later use.

Common Problems

Medlar trees are generally robust and largely trouble-free, but a few issues can occasionally arise:

Leaf Blight (Entomosporium Leaf Spot)

Small, red-brown spots appear on leaves, sometimes with a yellow halo. In wet summers, this can spread significantly. Management: Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves in autumn to prevent the fungus overwintering. Improve air circulation by pruning crossing branches. Fungicide sprays are rarely needed.

Fire Blight (Erwinia amylovora)

A bacterial disease that causes shoots to wilt and turn brown as if scorched by fire. Infected tissue has a characteristic 'shepherd's crook' curve. Management: Prune out affected wood well below the infected area, sterilising tools between cuts. Burn or bin (do not compost) infected material.

Woolly Aphid

White, waxy, cotton-like colonies on stems and branches. Generally cosmetic but can weaken young growth. Management: Scrub off colonies with a stiff brush or encourage natural predators such as ladybirds and parasitic wasps.

Fruit Drop

Premature fruit drop can occur during dry spells in summer. Management: Apply a thick mulch and water during prolonged dry periods.

Scale Insects

Occasionally, mussel scale or other scale insects colonise the bark. Management: Apply a winter wash of plant oil to dormant trees to smother overwintering eggs.