Peonies are lush, romantic flowering perennials prized for their large, ruffled blooms and sweet fragrance. They produce flowers in a stunning array of colours — from soft pinks and creamy whites to deep reds and vibrant corals — blooming in late spring to early summer. Bloom forms range from single and semi-double to fully double, and many varieties carry a rich, heady scent that makes them popular as cut flowers.
Herbaceous peonies die back to the ground each winter and re-emerge strongly in spring. Tree peonies are woody and retain their framework year-round. Both types are extremely long-lived; an undisturbed clump can bloom reliably for 50 years or more.
Peonies require a period of winter cold to initiate flowering, making them ideal for gardens with cool to cold winters. They are not suited to tropical or subtropical climates where winters are mild. Once established in a suitable spot with full sun and well-drained soil, they are remarkably low-maintenance and highly rewarding plants that add elegance and charm to any garden.
How To Grow
How to Grow Peonies
Choosing a Location
Peonies thrive in full sun (at least 6 hours per day), though they tolerate partial shade. They need a permanent, undisturbed position — once established, they resent being moved. Choose a spot with well-drained soil, as peonies are highly susceptible to root rot in waterlogged conditions. Avoid planting under trees or large shrubs where they will compete for light and nutrients.
When to Plant
The best time to plant bare-root peonies is autumn, when the plant is dormant. This gives the roots time to establish before winter. Container-grown plants can be planted at other times of year, though autumn and early spring are preferred.
Planting Depth — Critical!
For bare-root peonies, plant the eyes (red/pink buds) no more than 2–5 cm below the soil surface. Planting too deep is the most common reason peonies fail to flower. Tree peonies are planted slightly deeper.
Spacing
Space plants approximately 90 cm apart in all directions to allow airflow and room for mature clumps to develop.
Watering
Water deeply after planting and during dry periods in the first growing season. Once established, peonies are relatively tolerant of dry spells but benefit from consistent moisture during bud development.
Feeding
Apply a balanced, low-nitrogen fertiliser in early spring as shoots emerge, and again after flowering. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds, which promote leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
Supporting the Blooms
Large, heavy double-flowered varieties may need support — use grow-through rings or stakes placed early in spring before growth fills out.
Autumn Care
After the first frosts blacken the foliage, cut all stems back to ground level and remove and dispose of all plant material (do not compost). This reduces the risk of fungal disease, particularly botrytis.
Patience
Peonies can take 2–3 years to settle in and produce their best blooms. Do not be discouraged by limited flowering in the first year or two — once established, they will bloom magnificently for decades.
Harvesting
Harvesting Peony Blooms for Cutting
When to Cut
For the longest vase life, harvest peony stems when the buds are at the 'marshmallow stage' — the bud is no longer hard and tight, but has softened and is just beginning to show colour. Gently squeeze the bud; if it yields slightly like a marshmallow, it is ready. Buds that are too tight may not open fully in the vase; buds that are already open will not last as long.
Best Time of Day
Cut in the early morning when stems are fully hydrated. Avoid harvesting during the heat of the day.
How to Cut
- Use clean, sharp secateurs or scissors to make a clean cut and minimise disease risk.
- Cut stems on an angle to increase the surface area for water uptake.
- Aim for stem lengths of 35–45 cm, adjusting to your needs.
Protect the Plant
Leave at least 2–3 sets of healthy leaves on the plant after cutting. The foliage is essential for photosynthesis and allows the plant to build up energy reserves for next year's blooms. Avoid removing more than one-third of the plant's stems in any one season.
Storing Buds
Peony buds can be stored for weeks — ideal if you are timing flowers for a special occasion:
- Wrap buds loosely in dry newspaper.
- Place horizontally in a sealed plastic bag.
- Store in a refrigerator (not a freezer) at 1–4°C for up to 2–4 weeks.
- When ready to use, trim the stem ends and place in fresh water — buds will open within 1–2 days.
Vase Care
- Remove all foliage below the waterline.
- Place in clean water and change the water every 1–2 days.
- Keep cut flowers away from direct sunlight, heat sources, and ethylene-producing fruit such as apples, which accelerate wilting.
Common Problems
Common Peony Problems
Botrytis (Grey Mould)
One of the most common issues, caused by Botrytis paeoniae. It causes wilting shoots, brown or blackened stems at the base, and grey fuzzy mould on buds and flowers. Remove and destroy all affected material. Ensure good air circulation by spacing plants correctly and cutting back foliage promptly in autumn.
Peony Wilt
A fungal infection that causes stems to collapse suddenly. Cut affected stems well below the infected area and dispose of them — do not compost. Improve drainage and avoid wetting foliage when watering.
Powdery Mildew
A white powdery coating may appear on leaves late in the season. While unsightly, it rarely causes serious harm to established plants. Improve airflow and avoid overhead watering. Remove affected leaves.
Ants on Buds
Ants are commonly seen on peony buds, attracted by the sweet nectar secreted by the buds. They do not harm the plant — this is a natural relationship and no treatment is needed.
Failure to Bloom
The most frequent complaint with peonies. Common causes include:
- Planting the eyes too deep (they must be no more than 2–5 cm below the surface)
- Too much shade
- Overcrowding or disturbance of the root system
- Over-fertilising with nitrogen
- Plants are too young — patience is essential in the first 1–3 years
Leaf Blotch
Dark purple or brown blotches on the leaves may indicate Cladosporium paeoniae (peony leaf blotch). Remove affected foliage and clear all plant debris in autumn to reduce reinfection the following year.
Slugs and Snails
Emerging shoots in spring can be targeted by slugs and snails. Use physical barriers, organic pellets, or traps to protect new growth.
